Should novices learn to drift
First of all, I think adjusting drift is important and should be learned. Moreover, it is one thing to learn or not, but it is another matter to use it after learning. It is always right for phishers to master more phishing knowledge. There are many tuned articles and videos on the Internet that can be found by a search, and no money is charged. It just takes a little time and effort.
If you are more objective, I think it should be based on your own situation. If you only fish once, fishing is just to pass the boring time, or you are too lazy to study too much, then you don’t need to learn, including bait collocation and how to throw it. You don’t need to learn how to walk the fish.
If fishing is one of your hobbies, and you plan to fish often in the future, or you want to catch fish more clearly, you should learn it. You can't lead to the end every time, so that you don't even know when the fish bites.
I often hear people persuading novices like this: you don’t need to learn drifting when you just learn to fish, you just need to catch lead. If you want to learn it, you will wait for you to practice the basic skills. But isn't it a basic skill to adjust drift?
Novices learn to adjust drift is to learn the basic method
Some people are reluctant to learn to adjust drifting because they find it too difficult or too complicated. In fact, it's difficult because you don't know how to do it, or you just make excuses for laziness.
Let me summarize the drift in simple words: assuming the water depth is 2 meters, you only need to wrap a large lead on the lead base, and then make sure that the distance from the hook to the drift tail is less than the depth of the water, for example, 1.8 meters, 1.5 Rice is fine.
Then start to cut the lead skin until the float can come out of the water (no matter how many eyes are OK), that is to say, make sure that the float comes out of the water, but the double hook is not to the end.
If you just say "tune", in fact, only the above two steps are enough. The next thing you have to do to officially start fishing is to put the bait on the hook, but because the weight of the bait is added to the hook, the balance is broken, so the float will be pulled into the water again. At this time, you keep pushing up until it comes out of the water again, so that the fishing goal setting is complete.
We can't see the status of the underwater line group, so it may not be so easy for novices to understand. At this time, there is a drift bucket that can be clear at a glance.
Some fishing friends always complain that the drifting bucket is a useless thing, saying that the environment of wild fishing is much more complicated. The drifting bucket is for you to see what the state of the line group is under the water during each step of the drifting. .
If you don’t even know how to adjust the drifting bucket, can you learn it in actual wild fishing? If you can't even walk, just learn to run?
Of course, I’m not asking you to buy a drifting bucket. Most fishing gear stores have them. You can borrow them. If you don’t have a fishing tackle shop, you can watch videos of teaching in the drifting bucket on the Internet.
In actual combat fishing, which tune is better? Everyone should pay attention to this
Basic drift adjustment methods are very important, and I think they all need to be learned, but as for how many fishes are better in actual combat, this question is not important.
It’s not that it’s not important to “tune a few fishes”, but that you don’t need to be too entangled. Don’t use tune four to fish two today. If you hear someone say tune five and fish five, you will change it immediately. The day after tomorrow some people say that you take bait. Diao is more sensitive, you believe it again.
Theoretically speaking, how to adjust the fish should be determined according to the fish situation, rather than listening to other people's suggestions. From the actual fishing point of view, most of the time the fish situation is not too complicated. If the fish situation is very complicated, it can not be solved by a single adjustment fishing.
Generally speaking, I will give newbies several options, such as using lighter bait hooks such as earthworms and corn, so it is better to level the water for two or three eyes.
When fishing for big fish, use heavy bait or underwater obstacles that are easier to hook, then adjust the seven or eight eyes, and catch the four or five eyes.
For regular bait pulling, rubbing, and regular fishing, you can use tune four to catch two, and tune five to catch three.
With these kinds of programs, you can directly apply them according to the fish sentiment you are facing.
One more thing, don’t care about the error of one or two goals. For example, if you use a bait to fish for crucian carp, you originally wanted to adjust five to three, but the result was that a pair of scissors cut too much lead and adjusted it to six. There was no error in that goal. What's the impact, there is no need to plug a small lead skin to adjust, unless you have obsessive-compulsive disorder.
As for the fishing eye, it’s even less important. The fishing eye can be adjusted at will. When I was fishing myself, I might have set to fish for 2 at the beginning, but I might have fished for five or six.
Because there are too many small trash fish in the wild, you have to lower your eyes, and you may often drift in the dark and look too tired.
The relationship between fish mouth and tune fishing
Some people are always accustomed to checking fishing when they have no mouth. I can say responsibly that if you float and do not move while fishing, then there is a 90% possibility that it has nothing to do with fishing. It is impossible for you to adjust more or less. With two eyes, the fish will not eat the bait, and the float will not display the signal.
There is no mouth, no floating, no movement, the biggest possibility is that there is no fish in the nest or there are too few fish, you should consider how to lure the fish, or change the position.
The second possibility is that the bait is not right, or the nest is made incorrectly, which leads to fish in the nest but not biting the hook.
What situation has something to do with fishing?
1. Lift the fish in the rod but did not see any movement of the float.
2. There are target fish in the nest, floats and moves, but they don't stop talking.
2. Floating out of the mouth, but there is always no fish when lifting the rod, or often decoupling.
In these situations, it may be related to fishing. I usually have only two solutions. One is to let go and try to see the floats appearing as small and powerful as possible before lifting the rod.
The second is to push the float up and down to adjust the fishing eye. If there is a fish in the mouth, it may be a good catch, and you need to increase your catch; a weak signal and less movement may be a dull catch, and you need to reduce your catch.
If you find that the float hasn't moved, but the rod often catches the fish, it may be too blunt, and the lead is in the bottom. You should recalibrate the float.